In last week's post I shared with you the great fun we had at the bra making class at My Sewing Room here in Calgary. The class was so well received that there will be more classes and this week was an opportunity for me to design a bra for the next level class.
It was also an opportunity to work with some of the gorgeous bra tulle that Emerald Erin has been showcasing in recent weeks - her Black Beauty and Snow White bras are stunning and she has received lots of wonderful feedback on it, including some questions as to whether it would be supportive enough on a bigger bust. As Erin's Big Bosomed Buddy, she asked if I could put it through it's paces.
All the ladies in the beginner bra class had spoken about wanting to learn how to work with lace so this bra had to include lace, and while lace over duoplex is lovely, lace over something sheer like tulle is simply stunning.
I had a remnant of this gorgeous dusky blue lace in my stash. I only had about a metre and I love the almost art deco appeal of it's linear look and it reminds me of the wrought iron grates in Paris. I had decided that whatever I was going to make, the lace had to be used to its maximum effect and this seemed to be the project for it.
I decided on a long line bra to maximise the use of the lace. It's a great technique for the next level class. I also designed an integral power bar into the bra cup to give projection and to show my students what a difference it can make to the overall shape when compared with their diagonal seamed bra from the first class.
Once my draft was complete I cut out all my pieces. I used 2 layers of the blush bra tulle, with DOGS in opposing directions and then placed my lace pieces on top. The meant I would be working with a total of 3 very fine and flimsy layers of fabric and I was curious to see if my sewing machine would like it or try to chew it up.
The tulle handles like a dream and turns out to be the perfect fabric choice for the next class as it was surprisingly stable. The frame and cups were put together very quickly and you could already see the effect of that power bar.
Then it was time to add some additional channeling to the frame for the boning before adding my band elastic. The straps received a very simple but effective ribbon trim and the whole thing came together quickly. Sometimes it's almost as if the bra is desperate to be made and the make is effortless and this was certainly one of those times.
The finished item is really lovely - so delicate! So pretty! But could it really contain a heaving 28G bosom for longer than 25 minutes?? There was only one way to find out. The bra went on and I can honestly say it's so lightweight I could barely feel I was wearing anything. I ran up and down the stairs, walked the dogs, did the laundry, cleaned up the garage, scrubbed the kitchen floor and shovelled snow from the driveway. Everything stayed exactly where it was supposed to. The longer line was super comfortable, nothing rolled up or twisted. The cups were stable and supportive and very soft against my skin - no itching or irritation which surprised me if I'm really honest. Whether it will work on very large busts is hard to say, but I will be using it on a 38G client very soon and will report back if the results vary from what I've said here.
I love the end result. The fit is lovely: projection and uplift galore and masses of cleavage! The angle of the photo below is a little misleading as it almost suggests the wires don't go back to the wall, yet they do. The ladies from the first class are so excited about making this early next year where I hope to be able to offer a light and a dark coloured option for the make albeit in a different lace.