The Making of: The Spring Bra

January 8, 2015

I bought this lace recently. Isn't it gorgeous!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When I saw it, I instantly knew what it wanted to become - a beautiful bra that was light and airy, reminiscent of Spring - a perfect project to work on in the deep mid-Winter!

 

Although the lace is white, I'm not a huge fan of white bra's - many women don't suit white, whereas ivory, with its warmer undertones works wonderfully with many skin tones.  Instead of a full foam cup, I used cut and sew foam to make a lower cut, almost balconette shape.

Covering the cup was a little more challenging. Although this lace is beautiful, it is not a stretch lace, so I needed to put a dart in the fabric in order to get it to hug the foam in just the right way. The risk here was that the dart placement would interrupt the movement of the black and grey swirls. After some patient fumbling, I managed to get the dart in just the right spot so that the swirls weren't affected and the leaves were also left mostly unscathed. 

Once the darts were made it was time to secure the lace to the cup. The lace is white, black and grey, the cup ivory so it took time and patience, and bobbins in all the right colours to get this right! Once the top edge of the lace was secured, I wanted to eliminate the risk of too much movement, and I painstakingly traced some of the swirls in the respective top colour, with an ivory bobbin underneath.

The bra band posed a different question. Much of the band is ultimately folded under so a lot of the lace detail would be lost; however, the difference in colour between the ivory duoplex and the lace covered foam was too stark. The solution was to put two smaller lace panels at the outer edge of the band to display a leafy panel merging into the cup. A carefully cut out black flower from the lace panel was placed at the centre of the band and stitched in place. 

 

The final decision was what to do about straps.

I like a fairly wide strap generally, they feel stronger and can be more decorative that a slim length of elastic on its own. However, this bra needed a delicate strap and this time I opted for no embellishment as it's all about the cups in this bra. So simple ivory, narrow straps were ulimately selected. The end result is truly lovely.

 

 

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